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Lab Series L5, L7, & L9: the Ultimate Sleeper Amp?

Lab Series L7 L9 Fender Super Reverb

Hey fellow ampaholics, my name is Vaughn, & I’ve got somthin’ to share with the group!  I’m a Big, Big, BIG fan of so-called "sleeper amps", you know, the amps that sound friggin awesome, but can be bought by the average working guitarist.  Hey, who doesn’t love them?

In previous blogs I have featured the totally toneful, and surprisingly inexpensive Marshall Artist 3203, and the Randall RG80ES, the hands-down king of 80’s hair-metal tone.  Well, as promised, this week I’m blowing the dust off of what I believe is the best value in vintage amps available on the market, the Lab Series amps of the late 1970’s.

Do a little sniffing around and you will find the history of these puppies.  Designed by Bob Moog & the folks at Gibson ... and spendy as all get out!  These were never intended to be budget amps, these babies were primo top-notch, top-dollar amps intended for seasoned pros.

I won’t re-hash the features or specs here; do a quick Google searchand you’ll find that stuff.  What I want to talk about is TONE.  What does a Lab Series actually SOUND like? Well, a whole heckuva lot like a vintage Fender tube amp, that’s what.  So, if like me you like old Fenders, you will like the old Lab series.  A few distinctions set the Lab Series apart from a vintage non-master volume blackface Fender:  1) The Lab Series master volume is actually useable, and you can get a nice right-at-breakup tube tone at most any volume.  2) At 100 watts (true RMS) the Lab Series amps can get louder and offer more clean headroom than most vintage Fenders. 3) Unlike a vintage Fender, all of the controls actually do a LOT; be prepared to do a little more knob-tweaking than with an old plug-n-play Fender! 4) And, of course you’ll have to trade your Tremolo for optical compression.

Is a $300 Lab Series as totally sweeeet as a $1500 Blackface Super Reverb?  No, not quite.  Is there a sweeter sounding $300 vintage amp out there that can keep up with a 100-watt Marshall?  I don’t think so.

So, the math goes like this: 1 picture = 1000 words ... so a whole heckuva lot of moving pictures outta be worth about three billion of my words!  I’m gonna leave y’all with not one ... not two ... but THREE videos!  A shoot-out between my trusty 1967 Fender Super Reverb and the L7 & L9.  And individual vlogs on the L7 & L9.  Enjoy!

 

 

My outside site recommendation this week features all the specs of the Lab Series L5 / L7 / L9 amps, check it out! http://www.rru.com/~meo/Guitar/Amps/Lab/

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Lab Series L7, Amp Blown, or Just The Speakers? (The big Rub)

Top of the mornin’ to ya!  It’s a fair sunny day in the south of the USA as I pen this blog.  If the sun’s not shinning where you are, I pray you have some light that shines from the inside out!

I’m considering this blog to be the first in a two-part blog on my newly acquired Lab Series L7, a fine vintage solid-state 4x10 amp from the late 1970’s.  I was a kid just learning to play when the Lab Series amps were the "big thing".  They were used by a lot of big names back then, and they cost a heckuva lot more than the average guitar player could afford.  Fast forward to today; keep your eyes open and you can often find a non-loved Lab Series on Craig’s List or eBay, and cheap, too!  The L7 in question was listed on Craigslist as being blown; and at a very inexpensive price indeed.  No haggling was necessary.  It took me about 1 minute to figure out what was wrong with the amp: all four speakers were blown! Wanta know what severe voice-coil rub sounds like?  Check this:

Man, if these old amps could talk, the stories they would tell.  This poor old gal only had one original speaker, two that were probably rated at about 7.5 watts, and one that well... here, take a look for yourself:

Lab Series L7 Blown Speakers

There ought to be a law against that kind of cruelty to a perfectly nice amp!  But, rest assured, the old gal is now singing sweetly again, sporting a quad of light-weight WGS Veteran 10’s. 

Lab Series L7 with WGS Veteran 10 Speakers

Don’t cha just love happy endings?  Next week, I’ll dig deeper into the wonderful Lab Series amps.  After spending some time with them, I am of the opinion that they may be the greatest of all "sleeper amps".

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WGS Thanks YOU!

On this Thanksgiving day, WGS would like to pause and thank all of YOU ... loyal customers ... Seriously, you are the best group of folks in the world, and truly, this is a world-wide community!  Thank you; together we are improving the world, one amp at a time.  :-)

Fender Vibro-Champ XD, the Ultimate Bedroom Amp?

Fender Vibro-Champ XDHi-diddly-ho fair blogeriffic frinds.  I’m an amp guy, I don’t try to hide it.  I’d rather play an average guitar through a fantastic Amp than the other way around.  Can I get an "amen" from anybody out there?  The problem is that syrupy, smooth, warm tube-tone usually only comes once an amp is at a fairly high volume.  Even my smallest of tube amps, a silver-face Fender Champ, needs to get fairly loud before it finds its voice.

My little Vox Pathfinder 15Rsounds decent at low volume, but it is kind of a one-trick-pony, and even it sounds pretty uninspiring at very, very low volume levels.  So, what do you do when it’s two o’clock in the morning ... the baby (or wife, neighbor, etc) is sleeping right overhead or in the next room, and you seriously need to do a little therapeutic noodling while watching the History Channel?  For me, it usually meant light nylon-sting strumming, or maybe an unplugged electric when even the nylon string thing was too loud.  Of course there’s headphones, but, I mean, well ... ugg!

For me, friends and neighbors, ultra low volume salvation has came in the form of  a cute little sprite of a Fender Combo.  Even at less-than-acoustic guitar levels, the little Vibro-Champ XD sounds very rewarding.  From Clapton-esque tweed Champ tones to SRV to big, warm jazz box, to metal, to over-processed pop tones ... it’s all there, and it all sounds good (or at least acceptable) even at VERY low volume levels.

Tell ya what, how about I present exhibit 1: this here lil ol video:

Next time around I’m going to be talking about hard-core speaker upgrading.  Ya all come back now!

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Ultimate 5-pickup Fender Stratocaster, Worlds Most Versatile Guitar?

Ultimate 5-pickup Fender Stratocaster, Worlds Most Versatile Guitar

I’m sub-titling this: "Vaughn’s Halloween Blog: The Frankenstrat Gets Even Creepier"!  (Frankenstrat v2.0)

My #1 electric is a 1995 Fender ’62 RI, and for the record, it came to me already quite ... well, shall we say "modified"?  When I found it at Nashville Used Music, it had a Seymour Duncan Hot Rails in the Bridge & a Seymour Duncan mini-humbucker in the neck position, a "swimming pool" cavity route,Graphtec string-saver saddles, and a roller nut & accompanying string tree.  After just a year or two, I put a Custom Shop Texas Special Strat pickup in the neck position, and re-located the mini-hum to an "almost" neck position; at that time I went with just a master volume & tone control & replaced the middle tone control with a mini-toggle that, when in the neck position switched between the Texas Special & the mini-hum, and when in the bridge position, split the hot rails into a single coil or a humbucker.

If you feel so led, go back and read my initial Frankenstrat blog from about two years back.

End result: a very versatile guitar!  I loved the option of the strat or humbucker neck pickup, but the hot rails never sounded worth a flip in single coil mode.  Plus, the vintage style split-shaft fender tuners and vintage style bridge ensured long string changes and constant tuning! So, I decided it was time to address every complaint, and finally make the worlds ultimately versatile players Strat!  Thus, the Frankenstrat V2.0 was brought to life!

First up, One more pickup!  If 4 pickups are good, five are better, right?  In this case, yea, sorta. I LOVE the sound of the Hot Rails in the bridge, but really missed the traditional Strat bridge tone. I have a stock American Deluxe Strat with SCN pickups, and I (personally) really like them, so I picked up one and proceeded to squeeze it in as close to the bridge as possible.  It didn’t work, even with a copper shield between them, my two bridge pickups being right next to one another just had too much electro-magnetic interaction and "cross-talk".

Ultimate 5-pickup Fender Stratocaster, Worlds Most Versatile Guitar

Speaking of shielding, while I was at it, I decided to shield the whole internal cavity.  How much did it help? Not at all, as far as I can tell.

Ultimate 5-pickup Fender Stratocaster, Worlds Most Versatile Guitar

So, the final position ended up being with the new SCN single coil right mid-way between the bridge & middle pickups.  I also added a second mini-toggle, and now one switches between the single coil & humbucker in the neck position (as it had) and the other between the single coil & humbucker in the bridge position.  The addition of a real single coil in the bridge is great, but it’s really to far from the bridge to get the serious strat/telly twang ... but it is close.

Ultimate 5-pickup Fender Stratocaster, Worlds Most Versatile Guitar

Next came the bridge, I went with an original Wilkinson 100, a very good sounding and stable bridge.  Sperzel locking tuners rounded out the upgrade.  With the new bridge & tuners, string changes are lightning-fast, and tuning stability is greatly improved, plus, the whammy bar is now truly useable!

Ultimate 5-pickup Fender Stratocaster, Worlds Most Versatile Guitar

There you have it, a seriously messed-up but versatile and functional Fender Stratocaster.  There are some trade-offs, of course.  A solid wall of pickups has GOT to have a lot of pull on those poor unsuspecting strings; I have the pickups especially low to help combat this.  Also, even with shielding between all the pickups, there is still a bit of cross-talk between adjacent pickups.  I took all this into consideration, and then thought about the three-pickup Gibsons; now there’s a solid wall of magnetism!  That was my official green-light to go for it.  Would I do it all over again?  Shoot yea, it’s what I live for.

If you have similar "Franken-guitars" email me pics & storys ... or post here as a reply.  We mad scientists must stick together; that way we’ll be prepared when the villagers come at us with pitchforks & toarches!

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Our Fearless Leader!

Everybody needs to release a little preasure now & then.  Here, WGS founder & President shows us one potential answer.

As David put it:

"40 rounds of .50 cal ammo. Everybody should do this once in their life."

Proper Size Speaker spade Lugs: The Definitive Answer!

Speaker spade lug proper size

If, like me, you are ALWAYS swapping speakers around, you have no-doubt grown tired of constantly soldering and re-soldering the connections.  Properly done, a solder connection is an awesome thing, but man, what a pain!  The fumes, the hassle, ugg. Not to mention that most speaker companies will only accept a speaker return if the lugs have not been soldered on.

And so it is that I have begun to put lug connectors (female spade disconnects) on all my amps & cabinets that don’t already have them.  There seems to be a bit of confusion on just what size the connectors should ideally be.  I aim to put an end to that confusion once and for all.

The most common size available at your local auto parts or hardware store is .250" (1/4"), and so many folks use them; but the spade (male) on almost all speakers is .187", and so a .250 mate ends up being quite loosy-goosy ... not a good thing. But wait!  That does NOT mean that .187 is the proper size, either.  If you choose the .187 size, you will be working like mad to get those buggers on and off; more than a few speaker terminals have been broken off as a result ... also not good.  So, the definitive answer: choose .205".  This size will be tight, but not so tight as to make getting them on and off a battle.  A final word, I’d recommend soldering the wires in the disconnects, not crimping them.  

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My outside site recommendation this week is MCM electronics.  MCM is a great source for the .205 speaker spade terminals. And, theyre cheap, too, a bag of 100 is under ten bucks!  check em out.

Speaker spade lug proper size

Reaper vs. Reaper 55Hz

If ya haven’t already, be sure to read last weeks blog on the technical details and differences between speaker cone and completed speaker Fs frequencies.  From over the internet I can already hear you all asking: "but what is the actual difference in tone?"  Glad you asked!  I’ll not make you wait, check out this video:

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My outside blog recommendation this week is totally off the wall!  Just in case you have not already, please check out the people of Wal-Mart photos.  Do it sometime when you really need a good laugh!

http://www.peopleofwalmart.com/photos/

The Truth about 75Hz vs. 55Hz Guitar Speaker Cones

I’ll just bet that you have noticed that the WGS Reaper is available either with the (standard) 75Hz, or 55Hz cone.  Several other speaker manufacturers also offer this option.  But, what does it really mean in terms of tone?  Let’s talk about that.

First, we need to understand that the natural response of the raw cone is not the same as the final natural response of the completed speaker, which is expressed as the speaker’s Resonant Frequency (abbreviated Fs).  Here is the textbook description of a speaker’s Fs:

“Also called F0, resonance frequency measured in hertz (Hz). The frequency at which the combination of the energy stored in the moving mass and suspension compliance is maximum, and results in maximum cone velocity. A more compliant suspension or a larger moving mass will cause a lower resonance frequency, and vice versa. Usually it is less efficient to produce output at frequencies below Fs, and input signals significantly below Fscan cause large excursions, mechanically endangering the driver. Woofers typically have an Fsin the range of 13–60 Hz. Midranges usually have an Fs in the range of 60–500 Hz and tweeters between 500 Hz and 4 kHz. A typical factory tolerance for Fs spec is ±15%.”

Here is a more abbreviated description:

“This is the free-air resonance of a speaker; it's the frequency that the speaker wants to vibrate at. This is a result of the weight of the moving parts (cone, etc) in balance with the stiffness of the speaker's suspension. At a speaker's Fs the speaker will over emphasize (make louder) that frequency and cause crossover points to change due to impedance variances. For accurate sound reproduction these frequency peaks must be controlled (kept flat).”

So, the final Fs of a speaker is: 1) the frequency at which it naturally wants to resonate, and 2) is a result of the balance (tuning) between the speaker’s moving parts and the suspension.  Think about those two points for a second.  Let’s make this comparison: take the A-string on your guitar; would you say that its Fs is 110Hz?  Well, yes and no.  When the guitar is TUNED to standard (A-440) then, yes, apx. 110Hz would be the frequency at which that string resonates.  However, the string can be tuned to resonate throughout quite a wide range.  Now, will a typical A-string (of around .036” diameter) be able to resonate at say, the low or high E pitches on your guitar?  No, its mass is to high to resonate at the pitch of the High E, and to low to resonate at the pitch of the low E string; that is, after all why all the strings on our guitars are not the same size.  The same basic principals apply to loudspeakers.

A raw speaker cone will have a frequency at which it naturally wants to resonate, based on the properties of the material it is made of and its dimensions.  Everything in life has an Fs!  Thump on a metal mic stand, it wants to resonate at a pitch of say 2000Hz, thump on your wall, probably resonates around 400-600Hz.  Everything in the Universe has a resonant frequency!  Okay, so, back to speakers.  The question I often hear is something like: “if the WGS Reaper 55 has a 55Hz cone, why is its Fs listed as 75Hz”. That’s easy!  The CONE may resonate at 55Hz all by its self, but the overall balance (tuning) of the speaker results in a Fs (for the completed speaker) of 75Hz.  There are other guitar speaker companies out there that simply list the Fs of a speaker with a 55Hz cone as being 55Hz, but that’s not accurate.  Oh, and then there is the fact that the Fs of a speaker lowers over time as the suspension loosens up.  The Reaper 55, with an out-of-the-box Fs of 75Hz will settle down to about 60-65Hz when fully broken in.

Okay, so now you know the truth, the whole truth, & nuttin but the truth.  Trying to get a speaker to produce frequencies much below it’s overall Fs doesn’t work very well.  So, what exactly does this equate to in guitar tone?  Well, I’m glad you asked.  A standard tuned 6-string guitar has a fundamental frequency range from about 90Hz (Low e-string, open) to 1,300Hz (high e-string, 24th fret).  Upper harmonics extend to about 4000Hz (this varies greatly).  So, given this range, a speaker with a non broken-in Fs of around 80-100Hz works out quite well.  But what about drop-tunings and 7-string guitars that are all the rage in certain music forms?  Well, if the lowest note your guitar produces is a D, that’s about 75Hz, here is where a speaker with an Fs of 75Hz will really help you out.  A low C is about 65Hz, here is where you are in the range of drivers made for Bass guitar with an Fs of 65Hz or below!   A good guitar speaker, which needs to be nimble and articulate in order to sound pleasing, will not have an Fs that low.  Think about a hi-fi system; why do you have separate woofers and tweeters?  Because no one speaker can do a decent job of reproducing the entire sonic spectrum.  Take the 15” WGS Bass speaker, for instance, it has an insanely low 32Hz Fs … would it make a good guitar speaker?  Not if you want any sparkle and touch sensitivity.  But man can it move some serious air!

The point:  1) not all Fs specs are the same, 2) its a game of give-n-take. 

In my next blog I’ll do some video comparisons of the 75Hz and 55Hz Reapers.  Ya’all come back now!

email Vaughn     About Vaughn Skow

My outside blog recommendation this week is a serious breakdown of guitar tunings and relative pitches on Wiki!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guitar_tunings#Standard_tuning

The Vox Pathfinder 15R

Vox Pathfinder 15R

Every once in a while a guitar amp comes into our lives that totally exceeds all our expectations and/or preconceived notions as to how it will sound.  The diminutive Vox Pathfinder 15Ris just such an amp.  The petite cutie is roughly the same size as a classic Fender Champ, and weighs in at a couple pounds less.  Like the Champ, she uses an 8" speaker to push air molecules around. The 15R is a VERY portable amp.  At an average new price of 120 bucks, she’s also very affordable.

Vox Pathfinder 15R - Fender Champ

I plugged into one at a local pawn shop and was totally blown away.  The little solid-state amp sounded like, well, a really nice vintage Fender tube amp, complete with spring reverb and tremolo.  I was smitten; there was no way I was going home without the little Vox 15R.  Back in my home studio I put the little filly through all my usual amp-demo paces, and she did not disappoint.  It’s been said that this little Vox has obtained a cult-like following; it’s true, I’m a convert.  Here are the particulars:

Vox Pathfinder 15R Controls

Clean tone: This is where this amp totally kills.  The cleans are warm and juicy with just the right amount of smooth fenderish sparkle on top.  The two-band EQ is also voiced just right to be quite versatile and powerful, yet still feel like a proper vintage tone stack.

Dirty Tones: In true Vox form, this is where this amp somewhat falls apart.  There is no high-gain sound available, nor is there even a decent Marshall crunch.  When overdriven the little Vox sounds like one of its bigger brothers, kinda raw and ragged.  That’s not my thing, but it is the classic Vox driven tone, so if it is your thing, you won’t be disappointed.  If smooth overdrive is your thing, don’t worry, the little gal takes to drive pedals like a pig takes to mud.

Reverb:  This is one of those “how did they do it” areas.  The verb is from a TINY little spring tank, yet it sounds very good.  Vibroverb good?  No, but very respectable for gigging or recording; about on par with most modern spring verbs.

Tremolo: Again, surprisingly good, especially given the fact that many good tremolo PEDALS cost more than this amp.  Is it as good as a three-tube brownface Fender from 1960?  No, but again very respectable for gigging or recording; more than passable for bedroom rehearsal.

Footswitch: If ya get a f/s, please know that it’s wired to control the Tremolo and the gain boost.  The boost is a fairly huge pre-gain volume increase, too high to be all that useable to me.  Reverb is not foot-switchable.

Goesintas & Goesoutas:This is another strong selling point.  The line and headphone outs are fairly standard equipment on an amp of this breed, but the ext. speaker jack is a rare thing of beauty.  Plug this little gal into a big box and she can deliver her super sweet tones with enough oomph to keep up with a drummer on a medium stage. Cool.

Vox Pathfinder 15R Jacks

Got a sleeper amp of your own?  Let me know about it. 

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My outside blog recommendation this week is a quickie version of the Vox history!

http://www.nevadamusic.co.uk/guitar/blogs/focus-on--vox-amplifiers

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